Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about our products, our process, and our policies.
Showing 74 questions
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Care products can be sprayed onto a white microfibre cloth or spray directly onto the leather. For conditioners, apply to damp cloth then wipe over the leather.
Colourants (paints and dye stains) can be applied by hand using a sponge, fine paintbrush, foam roller, spray gun or airbrush. For most DIY jobs a sponge is ideal. Colour Cream is applied by sponge only.
Spray gun application, yes, Leather Hero products can be applied by spray gun or airbrush, and this can make the process easier and produce optimal results. Spraying is particularly recommended when:
- Applying topcoat over 'Aniline' colour coats (prevents dye mixing with topcoat).
- Applying Matte Topcoat (can look streaky when applied by hand).
- Recolouring large areas of nubuck or suede with Aniline Dye Stain.
- Avoiding all contact with colour coatings during finishing.
Spray gun settings: Use an HVLP gravity-feed gun with a 1.0–1.4mm nozzle, or experiment to find what works best for you. Apply in thin, even passes with drying between coats. Airbrushes work well for detail areas and small repairs.
Note: Primer is slightly sticky and can clog the nozzle. Apply Primer by sponge.
A spray device is not essential. All products can be applied by sponge. For most DIY jobs, a sponge is a practical and effective option.
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Paints, the Repair & Recolour Kit, Colour Cream and the Aniline Restoration Kit are all self-sealing and will not rub off onto skin or clothing.
Dyes (Aniline Dye Stain) is a penetrating stain and is not self-sealing. On some leathers there may be a small amount of dye transfer onto skin or clothing initially. To seal dyes, apply 2 coats of clear Topcoat (No.7). Ensure the leather is well prepped before applying the Aniline Dye Stain. Start with Spot & Prep (No.4).
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A sofa or car interior recolour can be completed in a single day with two people and a heat source, but taking your time gives better results. We recommend allowing 1-2 nights of drying time mid-project and again before applying topcoat. Most large jobs take 2-7 days. Small jobs can be completed in a day.
When restoring aniline leather with the Aniline Restoration Kit, the job can typically be completed in 1 day, or 3-5 days when finishing with topcoat.
Wet weather slows drying times.
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Care products can be used on all leather types across a range of environments.
Repair & Recolour Kit can be used on leather that receives occasional exposure to wet weather, such as furniture under cover on a verandah, motorcycle seats, apparel and accessories. Where possible, limit water exposure and dry the leather promptly afterwards.
Aniline Dye Stain can be used on suede and aniline leather that is exposed to the outdoors. Like all dyes, it is susceptible to fading over time in high UV environments. Refresh as needed when fading occurs.
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Care products can generally be used with pleasing results on man-made leathers.
Repair & Recolour Kit can be used on man-made leather-like materials, though performance and durability are typically reduced compared to genuine leather. If the material is already degraded (peeling, flaking or crumbling), repairs may not be viable.
Colour Creme can be applied to man-made materials although it tends to give reduced durability and performance due to the plastic characteristics of these materials. The Repair & Recolour Kit is the preferred option.
Aniline Dye Stain can in some instances stain man-made materials and fabrics.
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Our products are professional grade and many are used in tanneries. They are capable of giving years of durability. Results vary depending on:
- the quality and condition of the leather substrate
- whether the area repaired is load-bearing
- the presence of body or hair oils
- correct use of the full system
- the amount and type of use
- the quality of ongoing care
Good aftercare extends the life of both leather and coatings. Avoid rubbing and pet damage, as it causes coatings wear. When fading and wear and tear happen, Leather Hero offers solutions to restore your leather periodically as needed.
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We recommend testing before use to:
- confirm you are happy with the colour, shine and effect before committing to the full job
- make adjustments before using the product
- ensure the product is compatible with your leather type and finish
- understand how your leather responds to the product
Testing in an inconspicuous area is always the safest approach. Our products are laboratory-tested and widely used, but leather varies in quality, features and condition from piece to piece.
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Use the whole kit. Each product in the Repair & Recolour Kit plays an important role in maximising durability and producing a professional finish that looks and feels beautiful. This system is similar to the coatings system that is applied to pigmented leather when it is made. While Leather Paint will adhere to most substrates on its own, we recommend using the full system. The first 3 steps are all about enabling good adhesion which, in turn, supports good durability. The 4th step is colouring and the final step is a rub-resistant, protective coating that optimises the look, feel and durability of the finish.
- Spot & Prep (No.4) removes oils, waxes and soiling.
- Sandpaper keys the surface for better adhesion.
- Primer (No.5) creates a chemical bond between the leather and new coatings
- Leather Paint (No.6) is applied in thin, fast-drying coats
- Topcoat (No.7) protects the colour from wear and tear
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The number of coats varies depending on colour choice, leather finish/type and condition.
Repair & Recolour Kit
Primer: 1 coat (2 on high-traffic areas).
Leather Paint: 3-8 coats; 5 on average. Same-colour touch-ups require fewer, colour changes typically require more. Apply until full coverage is achieved.
Topcoat: 2 coats (can apply a third coat on high traffic areas).
Tip: When changing from a dark to a bright colour (such as Lemon, Scarlet, or Blue) apply a White undercoat and add White to your first coat to help speed up coverage.Aniline Restoration Kit
Aniline Dye Stain: 1-3 applications.
Colour Creme: 1-3 coats, more if needed.Colour Cream
1-5 coats, more if needed. -
No. Recolouring addresses colour problems only. Coatings protect the surface but do not moisturise, nourish or soften leather. To maintain the health of your leather and help prevent drying, cracking and delamination, a regular care routine using appropriate care products is essential. After completing colour work, wait 2 weeks before commencing an ongoing 3-monthly care regime.
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Feel
When applied to a clean, non-oil-affected surface and fully cured (up to 14 days), the coatings are not sticky. Finishing with Topcoat and conditioning 7-14 days after colour work gives the best result.Smell
Most products have a minimal scent when wet and no noticeable smell when dry. Some colourants use organic pigments or alcohol which have a smell. Cleaning products may have a subtle pleasant aroma or an alcohol scent. -
Nubuck
Yes, with some trade-offs. Three options are available:- Aniline Dye Stain (No.29) enriches colour with transparent stain. A spray gun gives the most even result. Some initial dye transfer may occur. Colours must be the same or darker.
- The Aniline Restoration Kit gives semi-opaque coverage of blemishes but permanently changes the soft, unfinished look and feel of nubuck to a more coated appearance.
- If the nap is low, the Repair & Recolour Kit can be used for full coverage including over filled repairs. The original natural look and feel is permanently changed.
Suede
Has some limitations but viable options exist.- Aniline Dye Stain (No.29) can enrich colour. A spray gun gives the most even result, and some initial dye transfer is possible. Colours must be the same or darker.
- Fabric & Suede Colour is suitable for small touch-ups in pastel and mid-tone colours but is not intended for an overall colour change. Most suede can be glued but is not compatible with leather filler, primer, leather paint, colour cream or topcoat.
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Yes, often but not always. Results depend on the leather's coatings and how long the dye has been present. Dye Remover (No.15) can be very effective on fresh stains or when leather coatings are not very porous. If the dye has penetrated into the leather, the stain may be permanent. Recolouring over a permanent stain with a Repair & Recolour Kit (pigmented leather) or Aniline Dye Stain or the Aniline Restoration Kit (aniline leathers) can conceal its appearance.
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Removing embedded oil from leather is very difficult. We have tested available oil-removal products and found the process messy with hit and miss results. When we find a solution that works well, we will make it available in our store. In the meantime, when doing colour work over an oily area, clean thoroughly with Spot & Prep (No.4) to remove as much surface oil as possible before proceeding.
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No. Glue (No.16) is white when wet and dries clear. When applied thickly, glue may retain a slightly milky appearance which can become more transparent over time. Wipe away any excess from the surface immediately. Colouring over a glued area is optional.
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Instructions for top selling kits and products are available in Directions For Use under Help in the main menu. They are also available on product pages, on product labels, in our How To guides, and in the Videos and FAQs sections of the website.
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Complete repair and recolour work first. Once the coatings have cured (up to 14 days), apply conditioner and leather protection. Then repeat cleaning, conditioning and protection at least once every 3 months ongoing.
Water Repellent or Leather Softener are best applied after all colour work has fully cured, before any care products.
If conditioner or protector has been recently applied, remove it fully with Spot & Prep (No.4), a microfibre cloth and a scrubbing brush before starting colour work to prevent adhesion problems.
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To repair a tear, you will need either Leather Glue for a small non-load bearing tear, or a Repair & Recolour Kit. Steps:
- Clean with Spot & Prep (No.4) to remove all soiling, oils and loose material.
- Trim any loose areas of leather with scissors if they cannot be repositioned.
- Apply glue to the edges, wait until tacky, apply a second layer, press and hold together, wipe away excess.
- If the join remains visible after curing, fill with thin layers of leather filler, then refinish with the Repair & Recolour Kit.
Load-bearing tears
- Stitch the join before gluing and filling.
- For extra reinforcement, insert a sub-patch, stitch through the leather and patch, then apply Leather Glue under and throughout the join. When the glue is cured, repeat if needed or fill and refinish.
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The products are not designed for long-term storage. Use them soon after receiving your order and notify us of any issues within 2 weeks in line with our Refund Policy. Some products cure when exposed to air. Keep lids tight and use Filler and Glue before they harden in the jar.
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Default Shine Level
Leather Paint has a bright satin finish by default, which sits between satin and gloss. Colour Cream has a satin finish by default.Topcoat sheen options
Topcoats are available in four sheen levels:- Satin: low sheen, popular, slightly flatter than leather paint.
- Gloss: gentle shine, popular, a good choice if you prefer some shine over a dull finish.
- High Gloss: very shiny, rarely used on furniture or cars but popular for some accessories.
- Matte: very flat, best applied by spray gun.
Dulling Agent
For a streak-free, hand-applied finish, ensure the shine of your colourant aligns with the shine of your Topcoat.- If using Satin or Matte Topcoat, dull your Leather Paint with Dulling Agent (No.30) for optimal shine alignment.
- If using Gloss or High Gloss, Dulling Agent is not required.
Gloss vs High Gloss: What is the difference?
Both Gloss and High Gloss offer a shiny finish, but High Gloss is noticeably shinier than Gloss.- Gloss: a clearly shiny finish. Found on many furnishings, some cars and accessories. A good choice if you want visible shine.
- High Gloss: a very high-shine, almost lacquered appearance. Rarely used on furniture but sometimes requested for steering wheels or accessories.
Adjustable shine
You can also blend topcoat sheen levels. For example, mixing 50:50 Gloss and Satin creates an in-between finish. -
Yes, it is completely normal and intentional. Leather Hero Leather Paint is tannery grade. By comparison to house or artist paint, it is thin and watery. This deliberately low viscosity creates a beautiful, sleek, showroom finish. Applied in multiple thin, fast-drying coats, coverage builds gradually without adding bulk or a 'painted' appearance. The low viscosity also helps maintain the look and feel of the grain and other natural leather features.
Consistency of each product type
- Leather Paint: thin and watery by design.
- Colour Restoration Cream: thicker, more like a lotion.
- Aniline Dye Stain: very liquid, similar to water.
Important note on Sample Pots
Sample Pots are for colour testing, not performance testing. When testing colour, it is fine to skip surface preparation (sanding, priming, Spot & Prep) as you are simply checking the colour. If you scratch the paint from a Sample Pot test, this is expected.For a true performance and durability test, use a full Repair & Recolour Kit on correctly prepared leather and allow 14 days curing before testing. Note: Even brand new leather can have coatings removed by intense rubbing, scratching or inappropriate cleaners, which is why leather care labels worldwide state 'Do Not Rub'.
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Drying times for coatings
Coatings (Primer, Leather Paint, Topcoat, Colour Restoration Cream, Binder and similar products) are water-based and air-drying. Drying times vary based on:- Environment: air flow, temperature, humidity and sun vs shade. Wet weather can mean slower drying and curing times.
- Assistance: a hair dryer, fan or room heater significantly speeds drying.
- Number of coats: the first coat dries fastest. Allow slightly more time as coats build. For large jobs, overnight drying is helpful mid-project and before topcoat application.
Typical drying times
- Touch dry: within minutes (assisted) or up to 1 hour (unassisted).
- Project dry: 2 days. Allow 1-2 nights drying mid-project and before applying topcoat (test in an inconspicuous area first).
- Ready to use: 1-2 days or longer if possible. Treat the new coatings with extra care until cured.
- Fully cured: 14 days. The time it takes for the coatings to expel moisture and fully bond to the surface.
If coatings are disturbed during application, that is a sign the previous coat is not yet dry enough. Allow more drying time or use a hair dryer to speed the process.
After care
After completing colour work, wait 14 days before applying any care products or wiping with water. -
The Repair & Recolour Kit contains 4 key products that work together to deliver a professional, durable result:
- Spot & Prep (No.4): A strong cleaner that removes soiling, oils, waxes, silicones and conditioner residue. This creates the clean foundation needed for coatings to adhere.
- Primer (No.5): An adhesion-promoting coating that creates a chemical bond between the leather and the new colour coats. One coat is standard; two coats are recommended for high-traffic areas.
- Leather Paint (No.6): The colour coating. Applied in thin, fast-drying coats to build full, even coverage with a sleek, showroom finish.
- Topcoat (No.7): A protective clear coating with the highest rub-resistance in the system. Seals and protects the colour coatings, extending overall performance.
Kits offer Filler, Glue, sponges, cloths and other accessories as optional add-ons. Sanding is an essential step in the process. Sandpaper 800 grit is available as an add-on accessory. Use it to smooth surface irregularities, smooth cured filler, and key the surface to improve adhesion for all subsequent coatings.
Check the product page for the exact contents of each size.
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Primer promotes adhesion. Binder seals a fibrous surface before sanding, filling or priming.
Leather Binder (No.33): Used when the leather surface is very fibrous and open (the cuticle of the leather is broken). It is a viscous liquid that binds and consolidates the surface structure, providing a sandable, stable base for filler and coatings. Use Binder to stabilise a degraded substrate before repair.
Primer (No.5): Used on a prepared surface after cleaning and sanding. It creates a chemical bond between the leather surface and the new colour coats. It can be used before and after filling for maximum adhesion. It is a standard step in the Repair & Recolour Kit process.
When to use both: If your leather is very fibrous and degraded, apply Binder first to stabilise the surface, sand when cured then proceed with the full process including Primer.
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Bottled products
Our products are water-based. They are classified as non-dangerous goods and non-toxic. Many contain plant-based extracts and organic ingredients. They are not intended for ingestion or excessive skin exposure. What this means:- Do not apply to plates or cutlery or any surface that is used to dispense food.
- Do not apply to toys that are likely to be routinely mouthed by pets or children. They have not been tested for this.
- Do not drink the products.
- Do not soak in or paint the skin with the products (they are not intended for use as body paint).
- Ensure proper ventilation when using.
Use the products in accordance with directions, keep away from children, and store with the lids on firmly in a cool cupboard.
On treated leather
The products are known to be safe for normal use.Ingredients
If you have specific ingredient concerns, contact us. We cannot share our ingredient lists but we may be able to advise if the ingredient you wish to avoid is in the specific product you are interested in. -
Use the Quiz on the Home page to view examples of the 5 main leather finish types. Our detailed guide 'What type of leather do I have?' may also be helpful.
You can also search Google Images for examples of:
- Pigmented leather
- Semi-aniline leather
- Aniline leather
- Waxed leather
- Oil pull-up leather
- Faux or synthetic leather
Find an example that looks like your leather. The most common finish is pigmented, followed by semi-aniline.
Visit the sellers website to find the product description or contact the store directly.
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Three options for faded aniline leather:
- Aniline Dye Stain (No.29) with Topcoat (No.7). Best when faded but free of heavy marks and coatings wear. Re-dyes with transparent stain, then topcoat seals and protects. Not suitable for filling cracks or scratches. Prep the leather with Spot & Prep (No.4).
- Aniline Restoration Kit. The most popular solution for faded, blemished anilines and semi-anilines. Light to moderate coverage preserves natural leather character while blending marks. Finish with Topcoat for maximum durability.
- Repair & Recolour Kit. Full opaque coverage, conceals stains and repairs completely and allows a colour change. Permanently converts the leather to a pigmented finish.
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The best solution depends on your leather type and the severity of damage.
Pigmented leather including cars
Use the Repair & Recolour Kit. Clean, glue any loose tags, fill pits or gouges, sand, then prime, colour and topcoat. Establish a regular 3-monthly care routine commencing 2 weeks after refinishing to help prevent coatings damage from soiling, perspiration, and body oils.Aniline leathers
For a small scratch, gently massage with a fingertip, then service with the Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit. Surface scuffs are inevitable; regular leather care helps to minimise the appearance of minor wear and tear. For widespread scratching and fading, restore with the Aniline Restoration Kit. For deep gouges and scratches, the Repair & Recolour Kit with filler can help, though a perfectly invisible/blended result may not be achievable. Choose an 'aniline' blend colour.Waxed & oiled leather
Rub a scratch gently with a fingertip to warm and soften the wax. Scratches are inevitable with this leather finish. If leather care is overdue, commence a regular 3-monthly care routine. If it's time to restore the entire piece, the Aniline Restoration Kit is often the ideal choice.Faux leather
The Repair & Recolour Kit can help although performance and durability may be limited depending on the composition of your material.Nubuck & Suede
Service the leather regularly with the Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit. Finish with a thorough brushing to restore the nap (suede). For older nubuck leather, a colour restoration may be possible. Aniline Dye Stain boosts colour using transparent stain. The Aniline Restoration Kit boosts colour and adds semi-opaque surface coatings that will permantly remove the doeskin feel of nubuck leather. -
You will need a Steering Wheel Kit or a Repair & Recolour Kit. If there are lifted edges that need to be reattached, you'll need Leather Glue. If there are pits, scratches and surface irregularities, you'll need Leather Filler (available as an optional add-on to your kit (White) and separately in coloured versions). Once repair work is completed, the finishing system is applied: primer, colour and topcoat. Accessories include sandpaper, microfibre cloth, sponges, and leather scrubbing brush.
Formulated for pigmented leather. Can also be applied to man-made materials although results and durability may vary depending on the composition of your material.
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Both are leather colourants that deliver a professional, refined, showroom finish. Both are:
- Self-sealing (won't rub off onto skin and clothing)
- Satiny finish
- Not a temporary polish
- Designed for pigmented leathers
- Reliant on surface prep using Spot & Prep (No.4)
Colour Restoration Cream
This is an all-in-one refresher:- Sheer to semi-opaque coverage
- Ideal for same-colour makeovers
- Applied by sponge
Not suitable for colour changes, applying over filler, or spraying. Easy and convenient, but must be an exact colour match.
Leather Paint
This is the versatile colourant:- Changes colours (lighter or darker)
- Gives full coverage over filler
- Can be applied by sponge, roller, brush or spray
- Delivers maximum durability within the full Repair & Recolour Kit system (strongly recommended)
A layered system designed for maximum durability, repair coverage and all colour options. Mimics the system applied during manufacturing.
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Colourants
Coverage estimates are available under the 'Coverage' tab in each product description on the website. Check the Repair & Recolour Kit and Aniline Restoration Kit product pages for volume and coverage estimates relative to kit size.Leather care
If it has been more than 3 months since your leather was last cared for, the job may require more product and effort than a regularly maintained piece. -
Yes, coloured or white filler is always designed to be covered with leather paint for a well-blended repair. Filler is a surface-correction compound, not a finishing product. Once cured and sanded, it is coloured over using the full Repair & Recolour Kit system (leather paint system). You can also tint white filler by blending around 10-20% leather paint into it, which may reduce the number of colour coats needed for coverage.
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Aniline to pigmented
Yes. Applying the Repair & Recolour Kit to aniline leather gives full coverage that can conceal blemishes, cover filled repairs and allow for a colour change. This permanently converts the leather from aniline to pigmented (painted/coated) finish.Pigmented to aniline
No. Pigmented leather has layers of paint and coatings that cannot be fully removed to replicate true aniline. Three options for an aniline-like aesthetic:- Recolour with an 'Aniline' blended leather paint such as Aniline Ember. This creates a somewhat semi-aniline look with the luminous quality of dyes using one colour. Use the Repair & Recolour Kit.
- Using a spray gun, create a softly mottled multi-tone finish by layering a harmonious darker accent colour over a light base colour. Use the Repair & Recolour Kit plus Leather Paint for the accent coat.
- Experimental: Tint the original coatings with Aniline Dye Stain (No.29). Unconventional and not generally recommended, but can work on small areas. Test first and choose a darker colour in the same family.
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Man-made materials are fundamentally less repairable than genuine leather. As they age, the adhesive bonding the plastic surface to its backing fails and plasticisers expire, causing cracking and peeling. While the process cannot be reversed, timely intervention can extend the life of the material. If the problem is minor, try Glue (No.14) to re-bond the upper layer to the backing.
Steps:- Dilute Leather Glue with 25-50% water and gently work it into the affected area. Wipe away excess, then press or weight the area until dry. Apply a second application or undiluted glue if needed.
- Once dry, if needed, fill residual cracks and recolour using a Repair & Recolour Kit (performance and durability may be reduced due to the nature of the material).
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Possibly, depending on the severity. Oils repel adhesion, so filler, glue and coatings may struggle to stick to heavily oil-impregnated leather.
Pigmented leather
The Repair & Recolour Kit coatings may adhere well initially, though oily areas may need periodic touch-up.Aniline type leather
For aniline type leather, Aniline Dye Stain in a matching colour can help blend the oil stain so it is less obvious. The Aniline Restoration Kit can provide partial coverage over oily areas and is easy to refresh as needed. -
Repair & Recolour Kit
You will need a Repair & Recolour Kit. All automotive leather is pigmented or man-made and coloured with leather paint (with the rare exception of some custom builds). Note: Aniline Dye Stain is a true dye and is not suitable for car leather. Search our FAQs for more information on colour selection, kit sizing and the repair process.Colour selection
Unfortunately, due to the vast number of colours used in vehicles over many decades, we cannot advise which of our colours corresponds to a specific make, model or OEM code. Sample Pots are a practical way to start narrowing down your match. We also have a paid custom colour matching service for 1 Litre kit orders if you can send us a physical swatch to match.Shades of black
Many car interiors are a shade of black. Our colour Midnight is a soft black more commonly found in cars than straight Black. -
For suede care and protection, we recommend the Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit and Water Repellent. For new items, apply Water Repellent first. For ongoing care at least 4 times a year, follow this order:
- Cleaner to remove soiling and lift the nap.
- Water Repellent to reinstate the water barrier.
- Conditioner to maintain softness and suppleness.
- Protector to help minimise soiling, stains and UV fading.
These products are compatible with most suedes. Always start in a hidden area.
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Yes. Leather Hero products work on all leather items. The products you need are determined by your leather finish type, not the item. If your sofa, car seats, handbag and shoes are all pigmented (painted/coated) leather, the same cleaner, conditioner and colour products work for all of them.
Leather care
Choose your care kit by leather finish type, not by item:- Pigmented (painted/coated) leather: Leather Care Kit. This covers most sofas, car seats, bar stools, bags and shoes.
- Aniline, semi-aniline, nubuck and suede: Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit.
- Waxed and oiled leather: Waxed & Pull-Up Care Kit.
If you have a mix of leather types, use the appropriate kit for each. Take the Quiz on the Home page to identify your leather finish type.
Leather colour and repair
The Repair & Recolour Kit and other colour products work the same way across all leather items. The process is identical whether you are restoring a sofa, a car seat, a handbag or a pair of shoes. The coverage estimates give guidance on pack sizes for various job types.Car interiors
The Leather Care Kit for cleaning, conditioning and protection.
The Repair & Recolour Kit for all repair and colour jobs.Shoes
Pigmented leather shoes: The Repair & Recolour Kit for colour restoration and repair.
Chelsea boots: our dedicated Chelsea boot kit, Reboot, is available in 2 colours: Black and RMW Chestnut.
Aniline leather shoes: Aniline Dye Stain and Topcoat. Prep with Spot & Prep first.
Nubuck or suede shoes: Aniline Dye Stain and Fabric & Suede Colour are suitable options.Handbags and accessories
The same products and process apply.Use the Colour Finder to explore colours and order Sample Pots before committing to a full colour kit.
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Colourant types available
- Leather Paint (opaque surface coating). Use the full finishing system in the Repair & Recolour Kit.
- Colour Restoration Cream (sheer to semi-opaque surface coating). For same colour refreshes.
- Aniline Dye Stain (transparent penetrating dye). For aniline type leathers.
Pigmented leather (painted/coated)
Use Leather Paint (any colour) or Colour Cream (must be a matching colour). Aniline Dye Stain is not recommended for pigmented leather. Tip: Car leather is almost always pigmented or man-made. Use the full finishing system in the Repair & Recolour Kit for best results.Man-made leather/PU/faux/vinyl/vegan
The full refinishing system in the Repair & Recolour Kit is suggested. Ease of application, results and durability vary and may be limited depending on the composition of your material.Aniline leather
All three colourant types can be used on aniline leather. If you want to preserve the natural, translucent look, use Aniline Dye Stain or, for most jobs, the Aniline Restoration Kit is ideal.Semi-aniline, waxed and oiled leather
All three colourant types can be used. For minor fading with no repairs needed, Aniline Dye Stain and Colour Cream are often the preferred approach. For heavier blemishes or repairs using Leather Filler, the Repair & Recolour Kit is needed and will permanently change the finish to pigmented (painted).Nubuck and suede
Leather Paint and Colour Cream are not suitable for all suede and most nubucks. Aniline Dye Stain can be used on nubuck and suede. For small problems on suede, Fabric & Suede Colour can be a good option. -
Four ways to find a matching colour:
- A standard colour from our range may already match your leather. Use the Colour Finder to discover our closest match then test with Sample Pots before ordering a kit.
- Mix two close colours together. Sample Pots are ideal for colour experimentation. For example:
- mix Cream + Beige = your shade of creamy beige
- add White to lighten a colour or use a darker colour to deepen it- Build a colour from scratch using our master pigments (Black, White, Scarlet, Ochre, Blue, Green, and more).
- Use our paid Custom Colour Mixing Service (minimum 1L order). Send us a single-colour leather swatch and we will mix your colour then send your order.
We are not able to recommend a colour from photos. Colour accuracy in photos is unreliable and colour perception is somewhat subjective. The most reliable approach is to order Sample Pots and test them directly on your leather.
Yes. Leather Hero colours are fully mixable
You can blend any two or more Leather Paints or any two or more Colour Creams or any 2 or more Aniline Dye Stains to create a custom shade. Our Colour Finder provides suggested mixers for colour adjustment. -
Yes. Order Sample Pots to test Leather Paint, Aniline Dye Stain and Topcoat colours. Apply 2-6 thin coats in an inconspicuous area, on the vinyl swatch supplied, on a leather off-cut, on perspex or in an inconspicuous area on yoru job. Colours can be mixed and adjusted. View test spots in varying light conditions as colour perception changes with light.
For a performance test, use a full Repair & Recolour Kit on correctly prepared natural leather and allow 14 days curing before testing.
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Yes, in most cases, you can change the colour of your leather. What works and which products to use is determined by your leather finish type.
Pigmented (painted) leather including cars - Yes
The Repair & Recolour Kit allows for full coverage in the same colour or a new one. Recolouring in the same colour typically requires fewer coats. For a colour change (lighter or darker), multiple coats build full, even coverage. From dark to bright:
Bright colours are more transparent than white and pastel or dark-based colours. Applying a coat of White Leather Paint as an undercoat or adding White Leather Paint to your first coat helps build coverage more quickly when switching to a bright colour over a dark base.Aniline type leathers - Yes
Aniline Dye Stain or the Aniline Restoration Kit. This system is designed for aniline, semi-aniline and waxed leathers. Because dyes are transparent, they cannot lighten the original colour. Choose a colour that is similar to the original or a shade or two darker.Man-made materials (vinyl, PU, faux, vegan, bi-cast or bonded) - Not recommended
Attempting a colour change is not recommended in most cases when wear and tear is likely. -
No. The Colour Cream is a colour refresher with sheer, semi-opaque coverage. It must be used in a colour that closely matches the current leather. It is not suitable for a colour change.
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Yes, spot repairs are possible, but a closely matching colour and shine level are needed for a cohesive result. Spot repairs can sometimes appear fresher than surrounding worn leather. In many cases, recolouring the entire piece gives the most uniform result without requiring a perfect colour match.
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Colour images
Our colour images are approximate. Each digital device displays colours differently, and ambient light, viewing distance and surrounding colours all affect perception. Sample Pots are the most reliable way to confirm a colour before committing to a full job. Note each formulation varies:- Leather Paints are full coverage
- Aniline Dye Stains are transparent and affected by the original leather colour
- Colour Creams are sheer to semi-opaque and can be affected by the original leather colour
- Coloured Fillers have a lighter, powdery tone when cured and are always designed to be covered with Leather Paint within the Repair & Recolour Kit system.
Batch variation
Our colours are mixed by skilled technicians using precise formulations. Every colour is painstakingly tested for consistency before release. Slight variations in raw materials can produce minor batch-to-batch differences, which are unlikely to be noticeable. If you have a keen eye for colour, order your full requirement in one order. Colour perception is also affected by ambient light, surrounding surfaces and individual perception. -
"Aniline" broadly means "dyed"
Aniline leather is coloured using penetrating dyes and has little to no surface coatings. This gives it a natural, unfinished look and soft touch, but also means it is less protected and more susceptible to marks and stains than pigmented (painted/coated) leather. Semi-aniline leather is dyed and has light paint and top coatings on the surface. Waxed leather is dyed and has light wax and top coatings on the surface.What are 'aniline' colours in the Leather Hero range?
The word 'Aniline' in a colour name means different things depending on the product:
Leather Paints and Colour Creams: Colours prefixed with 'Aniline' (such as Aniline Ember or Aniline Cedar) are a blend of leather paint and dyes. The result is a coating with extra vibrancy and a semi-aniline aesthetic.
Aniline Dye Stains: All Aniline Dye Stain colours carry the 'Aniline' prefix. They are fully transparent penetrating dyes with no paint content.How many forms does an 'aniline' colour come in?
Colours with 'Aniline' in the name are available in all three colourant forms. For example:- Aniline Ember Leather Paint
- Aniline Ember Colour Cream
- Aniline Ember Aniline Dye Stain
All other colours (without 'Aniline' in the name) are available as Leather Paint and Colour Cream only. They do not come in an Aniline Dye Stain version.
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For fixed cushions pressed tightly together, coating the side walls is more challenging. Helpful approaches:
- Engage a helper to hold cushions apart while you coat and dry with a hair dryer.
- Use your body weight by kneeling on cushions to expose the side walls.
- Use props such as dowel or paddle-pop sticks to hold cushions open while you work.
- After drying, place tissue paper between the cushions for the first day, or run your hand between them a few times to prevent sticking.
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This is an adhesion problem. Common causes:
- Previous coats are not yet dry. Allow more drying time or use a hair dryer.
- The material may be synthetic rather than genuine leather. Man-made materials can resist coatings adhesion.
- Inadequate surface prep. Wrong cleaner used. Soiling, waxes, silicones or oils prevent adhesion. Clean vigorously with Spot & Prep (No.4), a leather scrubbing brush and microfibre cloth.
- Embedded oils repel adhesion.
- The surface was not sanded to key it. Sand to key the surface using 600-800 grit sandpaper.
- Primer was skipped. Priming promotes the chemical bond between surface and coatings.
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Solutions, assuming correct and complete surface prep was undertaken. One or more may be applicable to your job:
- Allow more drying time or speed cure with a hair dryer, gentle sunshine or room heating. For unassisted drying, colour coats may need 2-14 days drying before topcoat.
- Use a fresh sponge or foam roller. Never use an abrasive cloth.
- Use a lighter, gliding touch when finishing. Try dabbing on disturbed areas.
- Mix 70-80% paint with 20-30% topcoat as your last colour coat, then apply 2 full coats of topcoat.
- Do not work into coatings while drying. Work quickly over each panel then let it self-level.
- For persistent adhesion problems, allow full curing then go back to thorough surface prep: scrub, sand, apply 2 coats of primer, then recolour and topcoat.
- Apply topcoat by spray gun to avoid touching the surface.
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Colours prefixed with 'Aniline' contain leather paint with a small amount of dye. Paints are self-sealing; dyes are not. When topcoat is applied by hand, some of the unsealed dye can mix with the topcoat creating a tinted finish. Application by spray gun eliminates this. If applying by hand, mix 10-30% topcoat into the paint for the last 1-2 colour coats to help seal the dyes before applying the final topcoat. Work quickly and apply in thin even coats.
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Why leather filler may not stick
- Oil in the leather. Hair and skin oils repel adhesion.
- Surface contaminants/inadequate surface prep. Wrong cleaner used. Soiling, waxes, silicones or conditioner residue impede adhesion.
- Applied too thickly. Filler must be applied in thin layers. If it balls up when sanding, or feels somewhat rubbery, it is not yet dry or was applied too thickly.
- Surface not keyed. Sanding before applying filler promotes better adhesion, particularly on smooth, shiny or heavily PU coated surfaces.
- Weak substrate. Filler may not adhere well to a torn, heavily stretched or weakened surface.
- Load-bearing areas. For a tear on a seat cushion, stitching the leather before gluing and filling produces a more durable result.
- Applied to plastic or fabric. Filler may not bond well to smooth man-made surfaces or to the fabric backing of delaminated faux leather.
How to fix it
Step 1: Clean the area thoroughly with Spot & Prep (No.4), scrubbing vigorously with a brush and wiping firmly with a microfibre cloth. Repeat until the surface is clean.
Step 2: Sand the area with sandpaper to key the surface for better adhesion.
Step 3: Apply a coat of Primer before reapplying filler.
Step 4: Apply filler in thin layers, allowing each to dry fully (30 min to overnight, or use a hair dryer). Build up layers gradually.If leather surface is frayed, apply Leather Binder or Leather Glue to seal the porous or fibrous surface before priming.
Filler drying times: Filler typically dries in 30 minutes to 1 hour when applied thinly. A hair dryer, gentle sunshine or a room heater speeds drying.
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Why the original coating came off
- Age and wear. Old, thin, worn or inferior quality coatings eventually degrade.
- Body oil and perspiration. Ongoing exposure weakens the bond between leather and coatings.
- Cleaning methods. Rubbing vigorously or using household cleaners can strip colour, particularly if coatings are already thin or compromised.
- Unsealed leather. Leather can be unsealed from manufacturing or because the original sealant has worn away.
- New coatings not yet cured. If leather has recently been recoloured, allow 14 days curing time before wiping with water or care products. Never rub.
How to fix it
Pigmented (painted/coated) leather: Use a Repair & Recolour Kit to replace the damaged coatings. After thorough surface prep, apply new coatings over the existing surface. If the colour coatings are still intact, 2 coats of clear Topcoat may be sufficient. If the colour coatings are worn, Spot & Prep, sanding, primer, new colour and topcoat are needed.Aniline leather: Apply Aniline Dye Stain to replace the colour.
Semi-aniline leather: Use the Aniline Restoration Kit. To permanently change the finish to pigmented (painted/coated) use the Repair & Recolour Kit.
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No. Full stripping is rarely necessary or recommended. The Repair & Recolour Kit is designed to be applied over existing coatings after correct surface preparation with full instructions available in the Directions for Use (under Help tab) and supported by FAQs, How To guides and videos.
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Conditioner and protector residue prevents coatings from adhering properly. Thorough removal is essential:
- Spray Spot & Prep (No.4) generously onto the surface.
- Scrub vigorously with a sisal leather scrubbing brush to break down the conditioner, protector or wax layer.
- Wipe firmly with a clean microfibre cloth.
- Repeat until no residue remains.
- Sand the surface to key it. 600-800 grit sandpaper suits most jobs.
- Proceed with Primer, then Leather Paint and Topcoat.
Note: Regular maintenance cleaners are not strong enough for pre-colouring surface prep. Only Spot & Prep (No.4) has the strength to strip silicones, oils and emollients. Skipping or rushing this step is the most common cause of adhesion problems.
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Peeling or flaking leather has different causes depending on the material:
Pigmented leather
After years of use or with inadequate care, the bond between leather and its coatings breaks down. This is known as delamination. Body oil, perspiration and soiling togther with infrequent care accelerate this process. The coatings peel away from the leather beneath.
Solution: Repair & Recolour Kit (with filler). Sand to key the surface and remove loose material, prepare the surface, then apply new coatings over the existing surface.Semi-aniline and waxed leather
Leather may feel rough to touch as the top coat degrades with years of use.
Solution: Commence a regular care regime or restore the coatings using the Aniline Restoration Kit.Man-made/faux/PU/vegan/bonded/bi-cast materials
The plastic upper layer detaches from its fabric or split leather backing as adhesives and plasticisers degrade. This type of peeling is harder to repair and usually progresses over time. Bonded and bicast materials delaminate as layers separate.
Solution: Glue (No.14) to re-bond where possible. A Repair & Recolour Kit can address surface issues but durability may be limited.How to tell the difference
Genuine leather underside is fibrous (suede-like). Faux leather underside is fabric or felt-like. Vinyls can look and feel somewhat brittle, rubbery or plastic. -
Matching the texture of a repair to surrounding leather is possible in some cases, especially when the leather grain is fine to medium:
- Apply filler in thin layers.
- Allow to dry then sand smooth with fine sandpaper (600-800 grit).
- For leather grain texture, using a sponge, apply filler with a stippling/stucco /dabbing technique to create a pebbled texture. When dry, sand any sharp peaks by hand to render small mounds that mimic leather grain. Experiment when wet and partially dry to explore different stucco textures.
- Refinish using the Repair & Recolour Kit.
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For the smoothest, most professional result:
- Thorough surface prep. Clean, sand, wipe down then prime. A well-prepared surface is the greatest contributor to a smooth durable finish.
- Thin coats. Apply thin, fast-drying coats. Pick out any hairs or grit while the coating is wet (not while drying).
- Dry between coats. Use natural air-drying, a hairdryer, or gentle sunshine to ensure each layer is fully set before proceeding with the next.
- After the first 2-3 colour coats, survey for any grit in the finish. If needed, give the entire job a light sand with fine sandpaper (800-1000 grit) and a wipe-down before further coats.
- Spray application. Applying paint or topcoat by spray gun eliminates sponge texture and gives a naturally smooth, even finish.
- Allow full cure. Allow 14 days before assessing the final result. Don't pick at imperfections during this phase. Coatings continue to settle, contract and harden during this period.
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To increase shine
- Purchase a glossier topcoat (Gloss or High Gloss).
- Mix a glossier topcoat into your existing one (e.g. 50:50 Gloss and Satin).
Prevent shine misalignment
For a streak-free, hand-applied finish, ensure the shine of your colourant aligns with your Topcoat sheen.- If using Satin or Matte Topcoat, dull your Leather Paint with Dulling Agent (No.30).
- If using Gloss or High Gloss, dulling is not required.
Add Dulling Agent progressively, testing in an inconspicuous area as you go. For an ultra-matte result, add Dulling Agent to the paint, use Matte Topcoat as the final coat and apply by spray gun.
Managing streakiness
On some leathers, hand application of low-sheen topcoats can look streaky when the paint was not adjusted with Dulling Agent first. Troubleshooting options:Option 1: Mix Gloss or High Gloss topcoat into your Matte or Satin topcoat to create the shine level you want.
Option 2: Apply by spray gun. This eliminates the chance of streaks.If you have already applied topcoat and want more shine, you do not need to start from scratch:
Option 3: Allow the existing topcoat to dry, lightly sand, wipe away dust with a cloth dampened with Spot & Prep (No.4), then:
a) Apply 1-2 coats of Leather Paint to cover the dull finish, then
b) Apply 2 coats of a shinier topcoat.Option 4: Allow the existing topcoat to dry, lightly sand, wipe away dust with a cloth dampened with Spot & Prep (No.4), then:
a) Mix 10-40% paint into your Topcoat and apply 2 final coats, or
b) Mix 10-40% paint into your Topcoat and apply 1 coat, then finish with 1 coat of Topcoat. -
The right products depend on your leather type. Three care kits are available:
- Leather Care Kit for pigmented (painted/coated) leather including car leather.
- Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit for aniline, semi-aniline, nubuck and suede leathers.
- Waxed & Pull-Up Care Kit for waxed and oiled leathers.
Whilst all products are available separately, your leather needs cleaning, conditioning and protection for complete care.
Leather Care Kit
For pigmented (painted/coated) leather. Most common leather type, found on most sofas, car seats, bar stools and many bags and jackets. Formulated for routine cleaning, effective nourishment with subtle shine and UV and anti-soiling protection. Take the quiz on the Home page to determine your leather finish type.Nubuck, Suede & Aniline Care Kit
For aniline, semi-aniline, nubuck and suede leathers. Natural, unfinished or lightly finished leathers that absorb moisture more readily. Formulated for gentle maintenance cleaning, moisturising without adding shine and protection from UV fading and soiling. When it's time to restore fading, scratches and stains, the Aniline Restoration Kit is the popular option.Waxed & Pull-Up Care Kit
For waxed, oiled and pull-up leathers. These leathers show a colour change or 'pull-up' effect when scratched or bent. Formulated for routine cleaning, buffable wax nourishment, and UV anti-soiling protection. -
Use Mould Remover (No.21)
Spray or wipe Mould Remover over leather to kill mould and mould spores. Repeat to ensure no areas were missed. Mould Remover can also be used on fabric and hard surfaces. After treating, clean the leather to remove any organic matter that may feed further mould growth, then condition to maintain softness. Have plenty of cloths on hand and launder or dispose of them separately. Ensure garments are clean and dry before storing them in a mould-free environment. Inspect all surrounding garments and wardrobe walls for mould and treat them as well. Minimise moisture in the immediate environment.Stains and coatings etching
In some cases, mould can leave behind stains in the leather coatings or vinyl upper. They may appear as grey, black, green, red, pink or purple blemishes. Long-term mould can eat into leather and leather coatings leaving behind a frosted or patchy appearance. This damage cannot be resolved by cleaning. After treating the mould, recolouring the affected area with a Repair & Recolour Kit is usually the most effective way to restore the appearance.Why doesn't Mould Remover take away the stains if the mould is gone?
Some mould killers contain bleach. They may lighten a mould stain, however, they will damage leather and encourage more mould to grow. Our Mould Remover is bleach free to avoid leather damage and to help inhibit future mould outbreaks. -
Restore and maintain suppleness with this three-part approach:
- Condition every 3 months using a conditioner suited to your leather type.
- Apply Softener (No.22) as a once-a-year treatment.
- Wear or use the leather regularly. Regular use causes natural 'milling' which flexes the leather fibres and helps keep it soft.
Can all leather be softened?
Some leathers were made to be soft and have become stiffened due to a lack of ongoing moisturising with a suitable conditioner, too much water exposure, incorrect leather care or UV drying. Others were made to be firm (stiff). They cannot be significantly changed to become soft leather.Water & heat damage
Extreme hardening can occur when leather is exposed to water and heat repeatedly. Leather car seats exposed to wet cozies then baked in full sun can create this situation. The fibres contract, bunch up and tighten. This change is usually permanent. -
Almost always yes, but some aniline leathers are very sensitive and can mark even with water. Test Protect (No.3) in an inconspicuous area first to check for unwanted darkening. Permanent darkening is very rare. If your leather responds well, make Protect (No.3) part of your ongoing 3-monthly care routine for the life of the piece.
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Every 3 months is the recommended interval, though the right frequency depends on your leather type, how often it is used and your lifestyle. Pigmented leathers are protected by coatings; aniline leathers are not, so more frequent care helps minimise marks. Heavily used pieces and those exposed to perspiration benefit from more regular attention. Light and regular care gives the best long-term results.
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There are staining agents and set-in stains. Staining agents such as ink, dye, red wine, food colouring, and hair colour, can often be removed while they are wet or very fresh.
Set-in stains are usually permanent. If the staining agent has penetrated the surface, think of it like a tattoo; the staining agent is now deep within the skin and no cleaner can draw it all back out.
Fresh spills and marks are much easier to remove than set-in ones. Having a suitable cleaner on hand when a spill occurs can make the difference between a temporary spill and a permanent stain. Use a wiping and dabbing technique rather than rubbing to lift the spill. Pigmented leathers are generally more forgiving than aniline leathers. For old, deep-set stains, try Spot & Prep (No.4) after maintenance cleaners have failed, testing in a hidden area first. If all else fails, recolouring with a Repair & Recolour Kit can often resolve the problem.
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Yes. Protect (No.3) is a silicone-free lotion that repels soiling and makes it harder for dirt and grime to stick. It makes cleaning easier and contains a UV barrier that helps reduce the drying and fading effects of sun exposure.
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Aniline leathers can mark easily. In addition to regular cleaning and conditioning, three protective treatments may further preserve your leather:
- Leather Protector is a silicone-free wipe-on cream that resists soiling, makes cleaning easier and contains a UV barrier. Apply every 3 months.
- Water Repellent repels liquid spills and reduces watermarks. Apply every 6 months after cleaning and before conditioning and protecting.
Another option is Topcoat. It forms a durable PU coating that seals the surface and resists spills and stains. It is the most durable option. Leather must be thoroughly prepared with Spot & Prep (No.4) to remove manufacturer lotions before applying Topcoat. We recommend a test is conducted before opting for this approach.
For maximum protection, use all three in this order: Topcoat, Water Repellent, Protector.
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Most Leather Hero care products can be used on man-made materials (faux, PU and vinyl):
- Leather Cleaner, Cleanse (No.1): Safe to use for removing surface soiling. Use together with a leather scrubbing brush and microfibre cloth. If stains have set in, the Repair & Recolour Kit lets you colour over them.
- Leather Conditioner, Nourish (No.2): Can be used to maintain a soft feel. Man-made leathers cannot absorb conditioner as genuine leather does, but surface application still helps.
- Leather Protector (No.3): Can be used to repel soiling and add UV anti-soiling protection.
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Aniline and semi-aniline leather is dyed. Dyes can fade from prolonged sun exposure, particularly through windows where UV is intensified. It is not common for pigmented (painted/coated) leather to fade from UV exposure. All leather becomes dry and brittle with ongoing sun exposure.
Prevention:
- Minimum 3-monthly care regime including:
- Cleaning which removes damaging soiling and opens the pores to receive the conditioner optimally.
- Conditioning which nourishes, moisturises and lubricates at the fibre level to help maintain suppleness.
- Leather Protector (No.3) which acts as an invisible anti-soiling, UV barrier.
- Window treatments: UV-filtering film, curtains or blinds reduce sun damage significantly.
- Throw rugs: cover the exposed areas when the room is not in use.
Once fading has occurred, recolouring with the appropriate product for your leather type is the best way to restore the colour.
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No. Due to online automation, orders cannot be combined after they have been placed. Freight is automatically purchased from Australia Post for each order and postage charges are not refundable. Where possible, we will ship both orders together for your convenience, though this is not always possible depending on weight and dimensions.
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We accept some products back for a refund. For full details, please review our Refund Policy on the website.
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Delivery time = Dispatch time + Transit time.
You will receive an email with a tracking number when your order is dispatched. Most parcels (97%) leave our Ormeau warehouse within 2 business days. Australia Post transit estimates:
- Express Post: 1-3 days metro, 2-4 days rural, 5 days remote.
- Parcel Post: 2-4 days metro, 3-6 days rural, 5-8 days remote.
- International Standard: 6+ days.
From time to time, external factors such as weather events may affect transit times.
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Leather Hero products are currently available online only via leatherhero.com.au. We do not have a retail storefront and our warehouse is not open to customers for visits or order collection. All orders are placed online and dispatched as quickly as possible. In-person pick-up is not available.
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We do not currently have an AI chatbot or live chat service. The best ways to find answers to your leather repair questions are:
(1) FAQs: This page covers the most common questions on products, process, colour and troubleshooting.
(2) How To Guides: Step-by-step instructions for a wide range of repair and care tasks. Available in the Help Centre on our website.
(3) Videos: Practical video guides demonstrating key techniques.
(4) Email support: Contact us via the website. We aim to respond within 1-2 business days.
We are developing a more advanced support tool to help customers get answers faster. -
Yes, we ship internationally via Australia Post International Standard (6+ business days). Check the shipping calculator at checkout for estimated postage costs to your location. If your location is not found, Contact Us.
Important: Customs duties, taxes and import fees may apply in your destination country. These charges are the responsibility of the recipient and are not included in the order or postage cost. We are unable to advise on the specific charges that may apply.
For any delivery queries once in transit, contact Australia Post with your tracking number.
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