1) Work area
Lay down drop sheets to protect your work area and ensure good ventilation.
2) Vacuum
Vacuum to remove pet hair, dust and loose particles.
3) Surface Prep
Spray Spot & Prep (No.4) on one area at a time. Use a brush to agitate into the grain. Use a cloth to wipe away dirt and grime from the leather. Repeat until the leather is thoroughly clean and free of soiling, oils, silicones, waxes and emollients.
4) Key the surface
Lightly sand the areas you intend to recolour. Usually 600-800 grit is ideal. Sanding helps to remove any loose or flaking coatings, smooth surface irregularities, and keys the surface to promote a good bond between the old coatings and new. When done, wipe over to remove dust.
For leather that is not damaged and does not require repairs, go to Step 7.
5) Glue
If your leather is damaged (cat scratches or tears) use a tiny amount of Glue (No.15) to glue down any loose tags or coat the open edges and join them together. For tears, apply one layer of glue, wait until it comes semi-dry (tacky), then apply a second layer. Join edges and hold firmly for a few minutes or until dry. Masking tape can be used to hold the sides together until bonded. For larger rips (greater than 3cm), try backing the hole with a large patch of mesh, silk, fabric, leather, or vinyl. Glue the underside edges of the rip to the backing (not the entire area as the glue may create a stiffened area) and hold or tape in place whilst curing. Keep the upper surface clean by wiping away any excess glue as you go. When completely dry, sand the area to remove or smooth any unwanted glue residue.
6) Fill
Conceal any repair joins or surface damage such as scratches, cracks and pits with Fill (No.14). To do this, load a small amount of Fill (No.14) onto the underside of the spatula, lay the spatula almost flat and wipe across the repair site. Use light steady pressure to press a thin layer of filler into the hollows and use a gentle sweeping action to feather the edges and minimise unwanted ridges of filler. Allow to dry before applying further thin layers as needed. Allow to air dry or use the sun or a hair dryer to speed drying time. In some cases, it is prudent to allow overnight drying. When dry, smooth using sandpaper. For larger repairs, a hand-held mini power sander can be used with caution. To mimic leather grain, try using a stippling (dabbing) technique for your last layer or two. This can create soft peaks that resemble leather grain when lightly sanded after curing.
7) Prime
Using an applicator sponge, apply an even coat of Prime (No.5) and gently push it into the grain of the leather. Allow drying. In high traffic areas such as seat cushions and armrests or side bolsters in cars, apply a second coat then allow drying.
Note: Engage a helper to hold cushions apart or use dowl to hold them apart whilst they are being coated and dried. This product is designed to stick. Ensure freshly coated areas are dry before allowing newly coated faces to touch.
If you are not mixing your own colour, go to Step 9.
8) Mix colour
If you intend to mix your own colour and have purchased extra colours for tinting the main colour add a drop, a few drops or a dash of colour at a time. Shake or stir to mix. If your colour is likely to require a lot tint, empty the base colour into another vessel for mixing (eg, mixing bowl, plastic bottle or plastic cup). Test the new colour before proceeding. To do this apply a 1cm spot, dry it with a hair dryer (at 30cm) then decide if or how to adjust your colour. Clean off your test colours as you go as they are easily removed when fresh. When satisfied with the colour move on to the next step.
If you want a Satin, Gloss or High Gloss result, go to Step 10.
9) Adjust shine
If you want a Matte result, add 5%-10% Dulling Agent (sold separately) to the Colour (No.6). More can be added if desired. Test as you add. Apply a 1cm spot, dry it with a hair dryer (at 30cm) then decide if more Dulling Agent is needed to achieve a good match with the original finish or to achieve a level of shine that is right for your job. Dulling Agent can also be added to Topcoat (No.7) if needed.
10) Colour
Use an applicator sponge, roller or spray-gun to apply Colour (No.6) evenly over the repair site or project. If finishing a repair, wipe the sponge over the surface and blend the edges using fast, light, feathered strokes. If doing a full recolour, use even strokes to ensure even coverage. Gently push the first coat of paint into the grain and any crevices. Wipe excess product from seams to avoid pooling. The first coat will not look neat or even. Allow to dry and repeat until your desired coverage is achieved. Several thin coats are preferable. There is no 'normal' number of coats as each piece of leather is different, some colours build overage faster than others, and the various application methods also impact the number of coats needed. If you are changing colours, it is likely that more coats will be needed than if you are refinishing in the same colour. Mild sunshine or a hair dryer can be used to speed drying between each coat. Again, hold cushions apart whilst they are being coated and dried.
It's recommended that you allow a few days for big projects like recolouring a sofa. After your first 1-2 coats of colour, give the new coatings a day or 2 to dry before proceeding with the next few coats. When you are happy with the colour coverage, allow another 2 days drying before applying Topcoat. Avoid soiling and skin contact during the refinishing process.
11) Topcoat
Apply topcoat using a sponge, roller or spray-gun. Use long even strokes to achieve full coverage. Allow drying. Apply a second and final coat. Prioritise high traffic areas. Allow to dry. Dulling Agent (sold separately) can also be added to Topcoat (No.7) to make it less shiny if needed. Reminder to prevent freshly coated faces touching until they are dry. Note: Matte topcoat is best applied with a spray gun. If hand application leaves a streaky finish, try mixing approximately 10% Colour (No.6) into your second coat of Topcoat.
Tips
Avoid touching the leather between coats during the restoration process as body oils could compromise coatings adhesion.
There is no 'normal' number of coats as each piece of leather is different and some colours build coverage faster than others.
Mild sunshine, a room heater or a hair dryer can be used to speed drying between each coat.
Avoid using Spot & Prep (No.4) or other cleaners (including water) on new coatings until they are cured (14 days).
If you find any blemishes, grit or hair in your coatings, allow a couple of days drying (or speed dry with a hair dryer) then lightly sand with 800 grit sandpaper. Follow with additional coating over the affected area.
If at any time, you see coatings disturbance during the process (for example, Topcoat appears to remove some colour), the coatings are not dry yet. Allow further drying.
If leather filler is slow to dry, it may have been applied too thickly. Thin layers are best.
Maintenance
Touch up scuffs and general surface wear using the same process; clean then coat. Best results are generally achieved by treating complete areas. For example, the whole seat cushion rather than just a spot or all seat cushions rather than just one.
After care
Allow at least 48 hours drying time before using your leather again. It takes 14 days for the coatings to fully cure. Extra care is recommended during this time to avoid scrapes or coating disturbance. After 7 or more days of drying, condition with Nourish (No.2) and protect with Protect (No.3). When dry, an optional step is to buff lightly to render a beautiful feel and finish.
PDF File for the Instructions - https://bit.ly/4cb4CeC